A little more progress on the brake light mounts

I coped in a tube in-front of the bolt tonight. The idea was to add some depth and dimension to it and hopefully finish it more like a casting then sheet metal when I’m done. After smoothing everything out it looks a lot like sheet metal or billet and it’s way too wide for what I wanted. I can probably cut some of the weight down a bit, but I’m not sure where this is going anymore.

I’ll tinker around with it a bit more and at least finish the initial idea I had before I throw it in the trash. Right now I’m only about 10% on this thing working out…bummer.


Need a better brakelight solution

I had been running a side mount license plate and tail light. Seems kind of standard fare, plus I was always a bit nervous the light wasn’t visible from both sides. I’d been mulling this over, so I decided to get to work on it today. I’ve been looking for some old Guide running lights to convert to dual filament, but it seems like the rest of the world is also looking for them. It seems like the rest of the world also must have deeper pockets than me, because I can’t shell out $300 for two running lights. I did, after all, just blow all my dough on valve covers and a magneto.

I have a nice zeppelin light with what looks like Guide glass, but I only have one.

Until I can track down a mate, I’ll be using these cheap turn signals for brake lights. I started by wrapping some sheet metal to fit the rear ear of my frame.

I cut a side plate for it (forgot to take a pic) then tacked the two together, poked a hole in the bottom and mounted the light. Here’s the current state:

That’s where I left off for the evening. Hopefully I’ll make some additional progress tomorrow.


Back from the dead!

Sorry for the lack of posts…I guess I become a fairly shitty host in the winter, when my enthusiasm is robbed by the inclimate weather.

I’ve been slowly plugging along. Since last I checked in I’ve replaced the square swingarm with a nice round, juice swingarm. I’ve also acquired a 67-72 juice drum and started cobbling together the bits that make it work. Using a mix of OEM and some US made aftermarket still looks like it’s going to make for a major pain in the ass to get the brake assembly in.

Right now I’m about 1/4″ too long on the assembly between axle plates. My axle also doesn’t want to pass through my hub spacer. I’ll deal with this stuff later.

As far as things that have gone well…here are my new valve covers from Josh at Throwback MC Parts. I saw a pic of these on a shovel somewhere online and tracked down Josh about them last October. They’re finally ready for production and I was lucky enough to get an early set. Some would say these are too pricey, but the quality, machining and finish is absolutely top-notch.

The rear fins are contoured for clearance on a stock frame. I was a bit nervous on the fit:

But once I had them torqued down they fit beautifully…and they look pretty snazzy with the Boyle air filter.

The cam cover is off to put the magneto in. I the cam is now on, but I need to get an indicator to check the camshaft endplay. Here’s the motor as it sits now.


67 Triumph Bonneville for sale

My good friend has shifted priorities and needs to unload his recently completed 1967 Triumph custom.

The motor is a fresh rebuild by BCF cycles, here in Cleveland. This bike is beautiful, the paint and bodywork is outstanding, and it sounds great. Tons of one-off bits.

Clear Ohio title.

It’s currently listed on eBay, but if you want to buy direct outright for $6,900 then get a hold of him at menke (@) pinstripingbymenke.com

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1967 Triumph Bonneville Bobber.  Fresh build w/ less than 100 miles.  Completely rebuilt motor by BCF Cycle, a vintage British bike shop in NE Ohio. Boyer ignition w/ battery eliminator and keyed ignition.  Starts on first kick or two. Webco rocker feed and points cover.  Mikuni carbs. Custom stainless steel 2 into 1 exhaust.  Custom oil tank.  Bolt on hardtail.  16″ HD rear wheel mated to Triumph hub.  New firestone double whitewall tire.  21″ spool front wheel w/ Avon Speedmaster tire.  Vintage aftermarket HD twisted springer chrome front end w/ custom stainless rockers.  Rupp minibike bars w/ white grips.   Unique antique car tail lite (glass lense) mounted to plate bracket.  Fluted glass headlight modified to accept halogen bulb. The tank is an old Wassell w/ rib welded on.  Rear fender struts are custom stainless steel, twisted to match front forks.  Not sure what rear fender is actually from. The fender was narrowed 1 inch (1/2 inch on either side of the rib) to better fit the tire.  White diamond pleated spring mounted seat.

New cloth wiring runs through the frame to applicable areas.

House of Kolor two-tone paint in candy rootbeer and blue.  The blue panels have a subtle lace pattern, and are hand pinstriped w/ a white outline buried under the clear coat.



High mids

I gave up on the old mids…I could have fixed the height on them, but the position was a bit too far back.

Here’s a bit of tinkering with a new setup. They’re pretty high up, which I like but it might get old.


Rippled wheel covers, screwed the pooch on mids.

I was pretty excited when my rippled wheel covers showed up from Kevin at Baas Metal Craft.

Other than that, I’ve been kicking myself in the ass for being a bit off in my measures for the mid controls, which resulted in this little mess.

 


Working on mid-controls

If anyone wonders where I’ve been, I’ve been banging my head against the wall trying to figure out the best approach for my mids.

Here’s where I am:

Above is the tube which will receive the foot peg arms. Here’s what it look like with the arms.

Right now I’m a little worried these will be too far back, but this is just a mockup so I can move them when I make the final part.